Test eq cycle before after pics

I have a D8 flooded lead acid battery 1400CCA and 255Ah capacity. it is 6 years old on a boat with a 3 stage 12 amp charger which is on all the time when the boat is not in use.
battery is now very low in specific Gravity 1175 less than 40% capacity. it’s voltage 3 days after a full charge is .  this is far too high and we suspected sulfation to possibly be the cause of the higher voltage.(we read this somewhere)
we then overcharged it at 16 volts and it only drew 3 amps . After about 17 hours the SG had gone up to above 1200 about a 50% charge. a remarkable improvement.
my question to you all is why is the battery voltage still high on open circuit and why is there only 3 amps of charge at 16volts. should we continue to overcharge it ?

The equalizer is definitely the most important piece of equipment in your audio rack! Most transceivers do an excellent job of passing all the midrange frequencies between 300Hz ~ usually with an added dominance between 500Hz ~ 800Hz. Unfortunately, most stock transmitters roll-off the bass frequencies below about 150Hz and down, as well as the high frequencies above about and up. So, we need to do basically three things:

* Reduce the Midrange
* Increase the Bass
* Increase the Treble

Taking a look once again at GRAPH 1 and GRAPH 2 above, you can see what an EQ can accomplish when set up. Below is a graphical representation of what EQing I had to implement in order to get some flatness out of my Kenwood TS-850S/DSP-100 after passing through its . and DSP filtering.

All modern, powered, sealed subs have an analog phenomena called group delay (in the digital world this is often referred to as latency) so to best integrate sub(s) you must fix that timing issue so the sub lines up in time with the mains at the crossover frequency area. Since you cannot remove this inherent delay in the sub you must add this delay to all the top channels. The PHASE knob on a modern sub ADDS MORE delay to the sub than its intrinsic approximately 10 msec. IN A HOME THEATER SYSTEM you do this by manually setting the speaker distance settings in the setup menu. Since consumer equipment operates sort of backwards, when you increase the distance setting of the sub you are adding delay to all the other channels. (!) I suggest setting all the speaker distance settings THE SAME and to 7 feet; then add 12 feet to the SUB distance only (so the sub distance now = 19 feet). Now you have added a bit more than the correct amount of delay to the REST of the system (the L C R Ls Rs) so you can then properly use the PHASE KNOB on the sub to FINE TUNE the timing match. This will give you the best possible impulse response through the entire system; the imaging and focus should then should be uncanny, and the bass focused and as tight as possible. Again, if this is done correctly, even if the subs are behind you, you will NOT localize them; it will seem as if the bass is playing from the front of the room, where it belongs, and this is true even if the crossover frequency is as high as 120 Hz. Here’s another audio non sequiter: people say that “bass is non directional.” This is completely wrong. Audio is more or less directional; the phrase should be bass is NON-LOCALIZABLE because the wavelengths are so much larger than your head and therefore there is no phase difference between your ears relative to the wavelength size. The higher you cross over, the more you MAY localize the bass IF the timing of the sub is so far off from the mains that it almost becomes a separate musical event in time. If the timing is correct you will feel the bass and localize on the harmonics.

Test eq cycle before after pics

test eq cycle before after pics


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